Kato Shorty B Power Chassis

A power chassis for Bandai’s “B Train Shorty"

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Kato Shorty B Power Chassis. 11-107

What is a Bandai’s “B Train Shorty" ?

picture from the following site:
http://us.yesasia.com/en/PrdDept.aspx/pid-1002861629/section-toys/code-c/#

What's under that gray cover? - . The shell appears to provide a force that keeps the motor in place against the springing of the power contacts for the motor.

Also attached to the gray cover is a SMALL weight.

The dimensions from the back of the package, if I've wetted your appetite?

Link to more info on Kato site:

http://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/small_powerunit2_e.shtml

An Application I for the Shorty B

Using the chassis to repower a Kato Steeple Cab

Looks like it should fit

In fact the offset of the shell provides a place for the gray cover to slide into

Removed the clips for the Shorty shell and trimmed the opening in the lower part of the shell. The shell now slides pretty well down onto the chassis, but hits the gray cover.

Another view - Will experiment how much of the gray cover can be removed and still operate satisfactorily

The gray cover hits the slopping ends of the shell

Removed the weight and cut the gray cover back to the wide paet of the cover plus a little extra.

The shell no sits down all but an 1/8 inch. This is about as far as it will go as the shell is now sitting on the gray cover.

Even with this elevation of the shell the engine still has that squat look when coupled up to a 40ft box

Can see it already pulling that way freight under catenary!

Just a few words about the original weight and the need for weight. The original weight did not register on my postage scale (2 lbs full scale) with out any weight the engine barely moves itself. As a test I taped a 1/2 once weight on the engine and it ran well. So this will be the challenge of all users of this chassis

Tried to assembly the shell without the gray chassis cover - the angle bracing on the chassis interferes with the shell sitting any lower. Hesitate in removing the protruding plastic as the chassis would probably loose it's horizontal rigidness.

Popped on another shell already set up with a trolley pole. Otherwise the chassis cover edges were painted to help disguise the space between chassis and shell.

The removing of PART of the channels turned out Not to be an issue. The push outs of the cab area again saved the day. The Stiffner only has to be removed to the center part of the frame. Twists come to the rescue to keep it together.

Illustration of were to cut back to.

The shell now sits well down on the chassis - Now to figure how to keep it on.
NOTE: The mounting tabs on the front & rear of the shell are protruding through the chassis interfering with the trucks. Not a real problem but till the shell mounting is resolved wasn't going to chop off the tabs.

See a Movie of the my PE Steeple Cab

AVI format 660 KBytes

Sorry about the quality, but........................

Final Product
The shell all the way down onto the chassis with the gray cover fully removed - a bit of a challenge to keep the motor in position when assembling, but worth the effort
A Neat looking Steeple cab for switching - but don't expect a lot of pulling power - In fact has a bit of a problem overcoming the friction of just its trolley pole!!!

Application II for the Shorty B

Using the chassis to Create at Runaway Caboose

We will power a LifeLike NE Steel Caboose
(The photo is of an Unmodified caboose, didn't take an pics of the N&W before I started the conversion)

Disassemble by pulling out the pins holding the trucks
Remove the shell by pressing together the tabs protruding beneath the chassis and gently pulling the shell away from the chassis

Use the weight in the chassis as a guide to assist in cutting the chassis or just remove the weight and then cut the end platforms off the chassis just to the interior side of the slot where the tab protruded through - the picture is the part that will be discarded

Glue the end platforms back onto the shell using the slot as a mounting point

You need to shorten the power chassis a bit - cut the ends back to the point were the chassis doesn't have a hole in the front

The Power chassis will not just slip onto the caboose chassis - You can mount plastic strips to the side of the shell that will use the mounting tabs located on the power chassis

A side by side comparison of the before and after
Now you have a neat unique model to surprise and confuse folks at your next operating session or NTrak show

See a Movie of the Run Away Caboose
AVI format 660 KBytes

Sorry about the quality, but........................

How about RePowering a Bachmann Brill

A Simply conversion all that is needed is to cement 4 mounting tabs on the shell

Not under Wire - But, A Neat 'Shorty' Project

Randall Gustafson Warren, PA

Randall Gustafson
Warren, PA

The Kato Shorty B
Box Motor Project

Will continue to update these projects -
Keep checking back on it's progress

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	Kato Shorty B Power Chassis. 11-107
	What is a Bandai’s “B Train Shorty" ? picture from the following site: http://us.yesasia.com/en/PrdDept.aspx/pid-1002861629/section-toys/code-c/#
	What's under that gray cover? - . The shell appears to provide a force that keeps the motor in place against the springing of the power contacts for the motor.
	Also attached to the gray cover is a SMALL weight.
	The dimensions from the back of the package, if I've wetted your appetite?
Link to more info on Kato site: http://www.katomodels.com/product/nmi/small_powerunit2_e.shtml
An Application I for the Shorty B Using the chassis to repower a Kato Steeple Cab
	Looks like it should fit
	In fact the offset of the shell provides a place for the gray cover to slide into
	Removed the clips for the Shorty shell and trimmed the opening in the lower part of the shell. The shell now slides pretty well down onto the chassis, but hits the gray cover.
	Another view - Will experiment how much of the gray cover can be removed and still operate satisfactorily
	The gray cover hits the slopping ends of the shell
	Removed the weight and cut the gray cover back to the wide paet of the cover plus a little extra.
	The shell no sits down all but an 1/8 inch. This is about as far as it will go as the shell is now sitting on the gray cover.
	Even with this elevation of the shell the engine still has that squat look when coupled up to a 40ft box
	Can see it already pulling that way freight under catenary!
	Just a few words about the original weight and the need for weight. The original weight did not register on my postage scale (2 lbs full scale) with out any weight the engine barely moves itself. As a test I taped a 1/2 once weight on the engine and it ran well. So this will be the challenge of all users of this chassis
	Tried to assembly the shell without the gray chassis cover - the angle bracing on the chassis interferes with the shell sitting any lower. Hesitate in removing the protruding plastic as the chassis would probably loose it's horizontal rigidness.
	Popped on another shell already set up with a trolley pole. Otherwise the chassis cover edges were painted to help disguise the space between chassis and shell.
	The removing of PART of the channels turned out Not to be an issue. The push outs of the cab area again saved the day. The Stiffner only has to be removed to the center part of the frame. Twists come to the rescue to keep it together.
	Illustration of were to cut back to.
	The shell now sits well down on the chassis - Now to figure how to keep it on. NOTE: The mounting tabs on the front & rear of the shell are protruding through the chassis interfering with the trucks. Not a real problem but till the shell mounting is resolved wasn't going to chop off the tabs.
	See a Movie of the my PE Steeple Cab AVI format 660 KBytes Sorry about the quality, but........................
	Final Product The shell all the way down onto the chassis with the gray cover fully removed - a bit of a challenge to keep the motor in position when assembling, but worth the effort A Neat looking Steeple cab for switching - but don't expect a lot of pulling power - In fact has a bit of a problem overcoming the friction of just its trolley pole!!!

	Application II for the Shorty B Using the chassis to Create at Runaway Caboose
	We will power a LifeLike NE Steel Caboose (The photo is of an Unmodified caboose, didn't take an pics of the N&W before I started the conversion)
	Disassemble by pulling out the pins holding the trucks Remove the shell by pressing together the tabs protruding beneath the chassis and gently pulling the shell away from the chassis
	Use the weight in the chassis as a guide to assist in cutting the chassis or just remove the weight and then cut the end platforms off the chassis just to the interior side of the slot where the tab protruded through - the picture is the part that will be discarded
	Glue the end platforms back onto the shell using the slot as a mounting point
	You need to shorten the power chassis a bit - cut the ends back to the point were the chassis doesn't have a hole in the front
	The Power chassis will not just slip onto the caboose chassis - You can mount plastic strips to the side of the shell that will use the mounting tabs located on the power chassis
	A side by side comparison of the before and after Now you have a neat unique model to surprise and confuse folks at your next operating session or NTrak show
	See a Movie of the Run Away Caboose AVI format 660 KBytes Sorry about the quality, but........................
	How about RePowering a Bachmann Brill
	A Simply conversion all that is needed is to cement 4 mounting tabs on the shell
	Not under Wire - But, A Neat 'Shorty' Project
	Randall Gustafson Warren, PA
	Randall Gustafson Warren, PA

	The Kato Shorty B Box Motor Project